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Boundary Ranges, Coast Mountains, Alaska/British Columbia border, near Petersburg, Alaska · USA
Devils Thumb
Devils Thumb is a knife-edged granite spire jutting from the Stikine Icecap on the Alaska-British Columbia border, visible from Petersburg on a clear day and locally treated as shorthand for good weather in one of the cloudiest corners of Southeast Alaska. Despite its modest 9,077-foot elevation, it is one of the most technically demanding and psychologically imposing objectives in North American alpinism, combining sustained rock climbing, serious icefall and avalanche hazard, and near-constant maritime storms. Even the 'easier' East Ridge -- the peak's only established route to see repeat ascents -- is a full Grade V alpine climb with three distinct rock cruxes, and the huge, unclimbed Northwest Face has turned back or killed multiple strong parties over the decades. Fewer than 50 successful summits have been recorded since Fred Beckey's pioneering 1946 first ascent.
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Elevation, prominence, coordinates and first-ascent facts are checked against published references and official sources. Where a fact isn't clearly documented, we show it as unknown rather than estimate.
Photography via Wikimedia Commons under its respective licences — the same sourcing standard as the resort photos elsewhere on the site.